READY?? Hey, man, come on!
This may seem like an obvious precaution, but trust me when I say that I have ruined more than one piece of equipment by forgetting to remove the battery. Stay alert and savvy. Just disconnect the battery immediately. PLEASE!!!
In most cases, removing the original head unit is a simple task. Usually, you need to take out a few screws and a panel. You’ll need a panel removal tool to carefully remove these panels, as they are often secured with clips rather than screws.
The website http://www.installdr.com/ is fantastic, and it offers beautiful instructions on how to put equipment in specific automobiles.
The factory radio can be removed when the surrounding panels have been removed. Commonly, bolts are used to secure it. Take the radio out of any cage or bracket it may be in, but leave the manufacturer unit alone. You can install your new stereo’s head unit using these cages or racks.
Now is the time to assemble your car’s installation kit. Consider the install kit and how the head unit will fit into it. Here’s where you could find the factory-installed cages or brackets to be helpful. The installation process can begin once the head unit has been attached to the mounting bracket.
Get everything hooked in that needs to be, such as…
Power supply, ground, antenna power, amplifier activation, speaker power, etc.
Put your aftermarket radio antenna into use using an antenna adaptor.
The pre-outs on your head unit and an amplifier connect the appropriate RCA connections.
If your car stereo has an RCA input, you can listen to music via a portable music player or other device.
Connect this cable to your car’s CD, DVD, or MP3 player or your iPod, satellite radio, or other audio device.
Okay, everything is now connected. Wow, you sound ecstatic! After reconnecting the battery and turning the key, something goes bang! The power comes on, and you get a pleasant vibe. The CD is playing, and the music sounds OK. Great!
Verify your wiring.
Make sure you reconnect the battery.
Make sure there is power going to the device. Employ a digital multimeter.
Install the new control panel once you’ve confirmed its functionality. Make sure it fits properly and looks excellent when the panels are attached. Check for straightness. We’re not trying to get this done poorly at all. Try to work in any unusual screws (such as Torx or other odd-shaped screws) you have. Your head unit will be harder to steal if you do this.
A backstrap for your head unit’s mounting is also recommended. This long metal strip has holes, and you can use them to secure the unit’s back. Locate a suitable anchor point for the backstrap, then connect it to the stereo.
You must adjust the amplifiers in your system to work with your new stereo. First, ensure the amps are turned down as low as they can. Select a track that was recorded well and isn’t excessively loud or bass-heavy. Find one that has a sense of equilibrium. From here, ensure that no equalization or loudness presets are active, that the treble and bass are neutral, that the fader is in the center, and that the balance is zero. Until you notice distortion, crank up the volume on your head unit. Turn down the level until the distorted sound disappears. There is no longer any tweaking required. Remember that you shouldn’t increase the volume past the point where distortion begins. If distortion is not present, try increasing the gain of your amplifier gradually until it is. Turn the volume to 11, and you’ll be ready. Reduce the book on the stereo’s head unit, and it’s good to go.
Alan Bayer is a businessman and an avid listener to music in his car. He has a shop on eBay where he sells equipment to put in car stereos:
The essay about car audio is just one of many on his fantastic website. The website also includes information on automotive audio, including where to buy the best gear, how to set it up properly, and how to save a ton of money.
Go to for your FREE copy of Honest AEB’s Car Audio Magazine:
Read also: https://www.mycheapseo.com/category/technology/
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